In Shandong丨Zoupings Paper-skin Stuffed Buns: Emperor-Styled Delicacy
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Have you ever eaten steamed stuffed buns from which you can tell the fillings through the wrapper? When it comes to it, you definitely should not miss the Paper-skin Stuffed Buns in Zouping, Binzhou, the wrappers of which are as thin as paper, and bright in color, making the fillings inside vaguely visible.
你吃过透过外皮就能知道馅料的包子吗?滨州邹平的纸皮包子,皮薄如纸,颜色透亮,里面的馅料就隐约可见。
The buns have a history of 300 years and are known to be “the same style as the emperor’s“. According to stories, during the Qianlong period in Qing Dynasty, a young court lady mistakenly brought leek buns to the Empress Dowager who was practicing Buddhist rituals, and the Empress Dowager, who ate the leeks, was furious and considered it as a great disrespect to Buddha. Emperor Qianlong therefore ordered the imperial chef Gao in the palace to make steamed buns, the fillings of which could be identified with the naked eye. After efforts to finally develop such a steamed bun, Gao’s creation greatly pleased the emperor, who then named the food: Paper-skin Stuffed Buns.
纸皮包子有着三百年的历史,并且还是“皇帝同款”。据传,在乾隆年间,一个小宫女错把韭菜包子端到修行礼佛的皇太后面前,吃了韭菜的皇太后勃然大怒,认为这是对佛祖的大不敬。乾隆皇帝因此命令宫中的高御厨做出仅凭肉眼就能识别出馅料的包子。高御厨经过努力终于研制出这样的包子,皇帝吃后龙颜大悦,赐御名:纸皮包子。
The special feature of paper buns lies in their wrappers. The traditional buns are only made of flour and water, while the paper-skin stuffed buns are made from flour, yam, and a mixture of other ingredients, and the quality of the raw materials is extremely demanding: the yam has to be a specialty of Zouping yam; the temperature for preparing the yam juice needs to be high, therefore the methods of making doughs are different in summer and winter.
In summer, raw yam can be used to make juice and doughs directly, but in winter, the yam juice needs to be heated to 40°C before kneading. The wrapper of the buns produced in this way is al dente, and can be rolled out to paper-thin.
纸皮包子的特殊之处就在于其面皮。传统包子的面皮都由面粉加水调制而成,而纸皮包子的面皮则是由面粉、山药等混合调制而成,且对原料质量要求极为苛刻,山药得是邹平的特产山药。又因为山药打成的汁对温度要求极高,因此冬夏两季的和面方法都各有不同。夏季可以用生山药打汁和面,到了寒冷的冬季则需要把山药汁加热到40℃再和面。这样制作出来的饼皮筋道耐拉,可以把面皮擀到极薄,纸皮透光。
In addition to the unique kneading process, paper-skin stuffed buns also have requirements for fillings. Although the fillings can be meat or vegetables, they require excellent cutting. Especially when using alum-free crystal vermicelli as fillings can the buns be soft and full. After the fillings are wrapped, not only can they be steamed and eaten in a pot, but they can also be pan-fried. The buns can be good in color and flavor with any cooking method. In 2016, the craftsmanship of making Paper-skin Stuffed Buns was selected into Shandong provincial intangible cultural heritage.
除了独特和面工艺之外,纸皮包子对馅料也有要求。虽说馅料可荤可素,但是要求切馅刀工一定要精良,而且最常选用无矾水晶粉条做馅,才能做出这蓬松饱满、晶莹剔透的口感。纸皮包子包好后,不仅可以上锅蒸熟吃,也可以像上海生煎那样在锅里煎熟吃,不管怎么做,成品一定是色香味形俱佳的。 2016年纸皮包子手工制作技艺被列入省级非物质文化遗产名录。
橡果工作室出品
视频:周溪琳
文案:武玮佳、徐立璇(实习编辑)
配音:武玮佳
策划:辛然