Filigree: An Intangible Cultural Heritage Craftsmanship Pursuing the Ultimate

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  金丝如瀑、银光似霜,纹饰精细、图案精美,这是一项追求极致的非遗技艺——金银细工。

  Cascadinggolden threads, silver glinting like frost, intricate patterns, and exquisite designs - this is the essence of the filigree, a intangible cultural heritage craftsmanship that pursues the ultimate.

  金银细工最早可以追溯到商代,经过三千多年的历史,演变为现在以金或银为主要材料,辅以其它配饰,经过精细雕錾制成的供室内陈设欣赏并兼具实用功能的传统金属手工艺品。

  Filigree can be traced back to the Shang Dynasty. After more than 3,000 years of history, it has evolved into a traditional metal handicraft that primarily uses gold or silver as the main material, complemented with other accessories. Through intricate engraving and hammering, these pieces are crafted into exquisite works of art for indoor display and decoration, while also serving practical functions.

  徐晓丽作为东营经济技术开发区金银细工非遗技艺的第三代传承人,受家庭氛围的熏陶,从小便对手工艺非常感兴趣,一直跟家里老人进行学习,同时也不断研究珠宝首饰类金银细工的制作以及深入钻研传统文化,在2022年的时候成立了个人工作室——星灵金工坊。

  Xu Xiaoli, the third-generation inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage craftsmanship-filigree in Dongying Economic and Technological Development Zone, has been deeply influenced by her family’s artistic atmosphere and has been very interested in handicrafts since childhood. She has been learning from the elders in her family, constantly studying the making of filigree jewelry, and delving into traditional culture. In 2022, she established her personal studio - Xingling Gold Workshop.

  “哐!哐!哐!”。一阵锤子敲打金属的声音从工作室的金工区中传出来,徐晓丽开始了一件作品的忙碌,绘图、熔料、锤揲、掐丝、累丝、炸珠、焊接、镶嵌……每一道工艺都考验着匠人的耐心与细心。

  “Bang! Bang! Bang!” The sound of hammers tapping on metal echoes from the workshop’s goldworking area as Xu Xiaoli begins her work on a new piece. Each step, from drawing, melting, hammering, wire twisting,wire coiling, beading, welding, to inlaying, tests the patience and attention of the craftsman.

  “在金银细工制作的过程当中,点翠是比较有意思的一个工艺,可以说,赋予作品更多灵魂的就是点翠。”金银为胎,翠羽为魂,选用颜色色泽较好的羽毛来进行点翠,将金属工艺和羽毛工艺相结合,这样的步骤也极其繁琐,熬胶、煮胶、粘合、刷胶、晾干、填补、清洗等一道工序的十几种步骤多次重复,才能最终得到一件色彩更加丰富饱满的作品。

  “Among the various techniques in filigree, kingfisher feather inlayis particularly interesting. It can truly give the work more soul.” Using gold or silver as the base and kingfisher feathers as the soul, feathers with good color and luster are selectedfor kingfisher feather inlay. Combining metal craftsmanship with feather craftsmanship, the process is extremely intricate, involving boiling glue, applying glue, bonding, drying, filling, cleaning, and other steps that need to be repeated multiple times to create a piece with richer and fuller colors.  “这件灵感来源于咱们东营市市鸟的东方白鹳,以及这一件来源于东营特产黄河口大闸蟹的秋收蟹肥作品,都用到了前面说的焊接、点翠等工艺。”徐晓丽将作品与家乡特色融合,制作成现代化的工艺作品。

  “This piece is inspired by the oriental white stork, the city bird of Dongying, and this one is inspired by the autumn harvest of Yellow River estuary hairy crab, a specialty of Dongying. Both pieces utilize techniques like welding and kingfisher feather inlay that I mentioned earlier.” Xu Xiaoli integratesher hometown’s characteristics into her modern craftworks.

  当说到这项非遗技艺的传承,徐晓丽也有自己的打算,徐晓丽自主研发了金银细工从“小白”到“大将”的一套课程体系,可以让孩子从几岁开始就能够接触到。

  When it comes to the inheritance of this intangible cultural heritage craftsmanship, Xu Xiaoli has her own plans. She has independently developed a course system for filigree, ranging from beginners to advanced learners, making it accessible to children from a young age.

  同时,徐晓丽希望通过老一辈的技术配方,加上自己的升级,通过传统技艺的延伸以及与现代化设备的结合,让金银细工技术进行革新,保留传统工艺的同时让非遗产品更多元,价格也更亲民,逐步实现让传统技艺进入更多的家庭。

  At the same time, Xu Xiaoli hopes to combine the traditional techniques and formulas passed down by the older generation with her own upgrades. By integrating traditional craftsmanship with modern equipment, she aims to innovate the filigree technique, preserving the traditional craft while making intangible cultural heritage products more diverse and affordable. Her ultimate goal is to bring traditional craftsmanship into more families.(耿建荣 陈子昊)

责编:康梦芸
审签:赵 静
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